The Dutch 131 Sullivan Street (at Prince Street), New York, New York 10012 212-677-6299

I became a fan of Andrew Carmellini’s cooking when he was at A Voce near New York’s Madison Park. Last year when he opened Locanda Verde downtown, I made a reservation a month in advance, and it was worth it. The Italian offerings were creative, perfectly cooked, and served by a helpful staff. So, when I read that this talented chef was opening a new American place called The Dutch in Soho, I couldn’t wait to try it. I met Natanya, my young friend and talented cook, for lunch there recently, and over a two-hour meal we sampled dishes until we could eat no more.

It’s hard to describe the food at The Dutch except to say that it is inventive, yet surprisingly simple, with an emphasis on quality ingredients. There’s plenty of fresh fish (with a first-rate oyster selection), choice meats, and no end of local produce. A welcoming treat arrived the minute we set down: a small warm loaf of peppery corn bread and sweet butter set on a wooden board. Most of it disappeared before we had even glanced at the menu.

We ordered the American Burrata (an extra creamy mozzarella) with California Figs, and Escarole, that was drizzled with a balsamic glaze. Then came Fall Salad, Country Ham, Peanuts, and Vermont Cheddar (although we had trouble finding the cheese!). Albacore, Kuroyaki, Tobiko and Tomato turned out to be a delectable charred tuna sandwich spread with mayo seasoned with fish roe. It was dessert, though, that made us swoon. We sampled two pies (the only dessert offerings), and both were outstanding. Long after I left the restaurant I was dreaming about the Buttermilk Pie in a Gingersnap Crust, garnished with poached pears and coffee ice cream. The Concord Grape, Apple, and Raisin Pie (with a secret layer of peanut butter spread under the filling) served with rum raisin ice cream and poached apples slices also filled my head with sweet thoughts.

The ambience at The Dutch is unpretentious, our waitress was a dream, answering myriad questions and making good suggestions, and the price for the two of us (no drinks) came to $85 including a tip.