Although we’ve been in Paris several days, most of the city’s restaurants have been shuttered for the holidays. Only this weekend did they start to reopen. We couldn’t wait, and for our first outing went to Le Pario, a new place in the 15th arrondissement that opened this fall. Our friends John and Sue Talbott recommended it, and met us there. John is a well known food critic/blogger here in France’s capital so I knew we were in for a treat.
Le Pario is small and well appointed with banquettes covered in rich caramel leather and tables topped with crisp white linens. But it’s the creative dishes of chef Eduardo Jacinto that are the real draw. A native Brazilian, with an impressive resumé that includes stints at Café Constant and Le Violon d’Ingres, this talented cook offers fresh, seasonal food that is stylishly presented and reasonably priced.
Our first courses were definitely original. I ordered a cream soup prepared with potiron (an orange winter squash), chestnuts, and truffle-scented cream. My spouse opted for a composed salad of smoked chicken, carrots, and scallions accompanied by baby romaine in a Caesar dressing. Mains included roasted quail with bacon-stuffed potatoes, and a tender fricassee of chicken, morels, and vegetables in a golden puff
pastry shell. A gratin of langoustines baked under a crust of Comté cheese drew sighs from all at our table. Petites éclairs with a banana filling served with dark caramel sauce, a lemon millefeuille with ginger and honey, and an orange mousse set atop a rich cookie crumb crust made sweet endings.
Our lunch ran about 45 euros per person for three courses, wine, and coffee. I’m making reservations to return next week!
54, Avenue Emile Zola, Paris 75015
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