It doesn’t happen often, but on rare occasions, I sample a dessert so delectable that I abandon all healthy eating guidelines, and just indulge. That was the case a few weeks ago when I was in Washington, DC, and ate at Ripple. (See last week’s post for more on that terrific restaurant). The Butterscotch Pots de Crème on the dessert menu sounded so tempting with their garnishes of cinnamon-scented cream and bits of toffee that I promptly ordered one. To describe this confection as addictive would be an understatement. I intended to take only a few bites, but in less than 5 minutes the little ramekin was licked (or should I say spooned) clean.

The silken texture and the delicate balance of butter and brown sugar (the two ingredients which make up the butterscotch flavor) distinguished these creamy puddings from others. After several tries at home, I had a version close to the original. Two cooking tips I discovered during testing were essential. One was that when the butter and brown sugar are heated together, one must stir the thick mixture constantly for several minutes until well blended, smooth, and slightly glossy. The other is that scalding the cream that is whisked into this warm butterscotch mix helps prevent it from seizing into lumps as it did when the cream was whisked in cold.

Once the puddings were baked and chilled, I topped them with whipped cream and a light dusting of cinnamon. Purchased toffee bits (available at most groceries) instead of homemade toffee as used at the restaurant, added some sweet crunch. Indulgence every now and then is good for the soul and the palate.

 

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Butterscotch Pots de Crème

3 cups heavy or whipping cream
4 tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed
6 large egg yolks
1 tbsp bourbon
1 tsp vanilla
1/4 tsp sea salt such as fleur de sel

Topping
1/2 cup heavy or whipping cream
2 tbsp toffee bits (See market note)
Powdered cinnamon

1. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Put six 1/2-cup ramekins, soufflés or custard cups in a large, shallow baking pan.

2. In a medium saucepan (with a lid), heat the cream until scalded and small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Remove and cover.

3. In a large, heavy 4-quart saucepan set over medium low heat, melt the butter and stir in the brown sugar. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent the sugar from burning. The mixture will look lumpy at first and the butter may appear to separate, but continue to stir until it is smoother and somewhat glossy, 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Gradually add the heated cream, 1 cup at a time. If the sugar seizes up into lumps when you add the cream, do not worry. Continue to stir being certain to get into the corners of the pan until the mixture is smooth and hot, 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.

5. Place the egg yolks in a large mixing bowl, and whisk well to combine. Slowly, whisk in 2 to 3 tablespoons of the warm cream mixture. (This will temper the eggs.) Then, whisk in the remaining warm cream very gradually until all of it has been incorporated. Whisk in the bourbon, vanilla, and salt. Pour the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a large 8-cup measuring cup or into a bowl. Then pour or ladle it into the six ramekins.

6. Carefully pour enough hot water into the baking pan to come half way up the sides of the ramekins. Tent them loosely with foil. Carefully transfer the pan to the oven. Bake until the custards are just set, 30 to 40 minutes. (Check at 25 minutes to make certain that they are not done.) The centers of the custards should still be a bit quivery. Remove the ramekins to a rack to cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate them until chilled. (The pots de crème can be prepared 1 day ahead.)

7. For the garnish, beat the remaining 1/2 cup cream with an electric mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Garnish each pot de crème with a dollop of the cream and with a sprinkle of toffee bits. Sprinkle lightly with just a hint of cinnamon. Pass extra whipped cream in a bowl or save for another use. Serves 6.

Market note: Heath English Toffee Bits work beautifully as a garnish for this dessert. They are available in most supermarkets, often in the baking aisle.

Copyright Betty Rosbottom 2015