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My Favorite French Blogs and Web Sites

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 Last night while teaching a class on winter soups from Sunday Soup, I mentioned to my students that I had just returned from Paris where I had spent a good part of a three-week stay trying new restaurants. Whenever I give a course, I can’t stop, as a devoted Francophile, from talking about the French, their customs, their food, their art. So, it wasn’t surprising that at the end of this class several people (a few with plans to visit France this year) asked me to recommend some blogs, and web sites.   

It then dawned on me that my followers would be interested in the French blogs and sites that I read. Here are my top five favorites.
French Word-A-Day: Kristin Espinasse, an American married to a French wine-maker in the South of France, recounts her daily life with her husband and two teenagers. In each of her three weekly posts, she includes French words and expressions in touching stories. At the end of each narrative, she lists the vocabulary words with definitions and an audio for pronunciation. I love her honest, direct style and have become one of more than 30,000 people reading her tales of French life.
Hungry for Paris: Alec Lobrano, a former correspondent for Gourmet Magazineand one of Paris’ best known American restaurant reviewers, has an amazing site filled with the latest news about restaurants in Paris and throughout France. His posts are detailed, intimately written and will make you long to be at the table with him.
John Talbotts’ Paris– John Talbott posts several times every week on his restaurant forays in Paris. His style is brief and to the point, and his posts are filled with practical information and photos about the newest and most interesting places to dine in Paris.
Paris by Mouth: This is a fabulous site about all things culinary in Paris. It’s a collaborative effort that includes restaurant reviews by such notable American writers as  Alec Lobrano, John Talbot, and Patricia Wells. French gourmands as well offer their opinions. You’ll find information and reviews for restaurants, wine bars, pastry, bread, and cheese shops and more.
The Provence Post: This is a blog written by Julie Mautner, an American who lives in St-Remy-de-Provence. You never know what Julie will post, but her style is so warm and engaging that I always read every word. One day she might describe an art exhibition or a concert in a nearby town; on another she shows you the photo of a fabulous villa for sale in her area. She might share a favorite restaurant or culinary experience another time. With each post, she makes you wish you were living in Provence.

Cooking in a Small Paris Apartment Kitchen

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Photo from Sunday Roasts by Susie Cushner

The kitchen in the Paris apartment we rent is tiny without much counter space, but it does have a 4-burner gas cook top, a dishwasher, and a garbage disposal (a rarity here).
The oven is my real challenge. It measures only about 18 inches wide by 14 high and is not deep. Try roasting in it. There are no temperature settings, just numbers with French names accompanying the figures–5 is for “cake,” 6 and 7 are marked “white meat, veal, and soufflés,” while 8 says “flans,” and 9 indicates “red meat.” Go figure!
Over the decade that we have been staying in this Left Bank place, I’ve learned how to turn out successes from this “ovenette.”

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Winter Soup Supper-Parisian Style

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My husband marvels at how easy it is for us to entertain when we’re in Paris. The secret lies in following the “cook some, buy some” philosophy I use here. Take a small dinner that we had for a couple of friends recently. I cooked a delicious winter vegetable and sausage soup topped with grated Gruyère, and prepared the vinaigrette dressing for the salad, but I purchased the rest. That’s right—I made two dishes and bought the other courses. In Paris there’s a fromagerie(cheese shop), boucherie (butcher), charcuterie (deli), boulangerie (bakery) and patisseriewithin walking distance in every quartier.
For appetizers, I set out bowls of Provençal olives, pistachios, and French radishes that were spread with sweet butter and then dipped in sea salt. The glorious main course soup came next accompanied by garnishes of grated cheese, parsley, and a warm crusty baguette. A salad assembled with purchased greens and sliced mushrooms (both cleaned and ready) plus a couple of delectable cheeses followed. Dessert came from a near-by patisserie. Voilà! There was my “make a little, buy a little” menu.
The French potage (based on a recipe for a “soupe du chalet” I had spotted in a French cookbook) was the star of the night.

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A Delightful Winter Lunch in Paris

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John Talbott writes a knowledgeable and popular blog about Paris restaurants that I read faithfully. When he asked my husband and me to join him and his wife, Sue, for lunch this week, I jumped at the chance to meet this psychiatrist turned food critique. The place he had in mind was Septime, located in the 11th arrondissment, one of the capital’s flourishing new restaurant scenes.
We had been to Septime last summer for dinner, not long after it opened, and were impressed by the creative fare young chef Bernard Grébaut (who had worked at the 3-star Arpège) proposed. Each course of our tasting menu featured fresh, seasonal ingredients and was prepared with careful attention to detail. Our lunch was also delectable, and at 26 euros for 3 courses proved a better bargain than our evening meal.
My lightly poached egg and shallots floating in a delectable bouillon scented with hay (yes, you read that correctly) sprinkled with crunchy grains of black wheat was delicious and inventive.

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Two Quick Last-Minute Appetizers for New Year’s!

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If you’re still trying to figure out what to serve with glasses of champagne tomorrow night, then consider one or both of these appetizers. Each is quick, easy, and delicious, and would make a fabulous beginning to ring in the new year. Oh, and did I mention that both can be prepared ahead so there’s no last-minute hassle.
For one of these nibbles you spread crispy baguette slices with fennel-scented goat cheese and then top them with colorful slices of smoked salmon. For the other, you simply fill large Medjool dates (you can find them at many supermarkets this time of the year) with some creamy blue cheese, add a sprinkle of chopped toasted almonds, and them pop them in the oven for a few minutes. Both of these delectable appetizers are sure to help you ring in 2012 in good taste!
Smoked Salmon, Fennel, and Goat Cheese Toasts
8 ounces soft fresh goat cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, finely crushed (Place seeds in a self-sealing plastic bag and  crush with a meat pounder or rolling pin.)
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 1/2 tablespoon olive oil or more if needed
30 thin baguette slices
12 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon
Lemon peel strips for garnish
Tarragon sprigs for garnish
1.Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. In a medium nonreactive bowl, mix together goat cheese, chopped tarragon, fennel seeds, lemon peel, and pepper. Set aside
3. Brush oil on both sides of baguette slices and place in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Bake until bread is just crisp, 3 to 4 minutes per side. (Cheese mixture and toasts can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover cheese mixture and chill. Cool toasts and store in an airtight container at room temperature.)
4. To assemble toasts, spread cheese mixture over toasts. Top with salmon, trimming to fit. Garnish each toast with some lemon peel and tarragon sprigs. Arrange on a platter. Makes 30 servings.
Roasted Dates Stuffed with Blue Cheese and Almonds
12 medium Medjool dates (available in most supermarkets)
A  4-ounce piece blue cheese such as Bleu d”Auvergne or Maytag Blue, at room             temperature
2 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped (See note.)
1.Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Have ready a medium baking pan or dish.
2.  Slice the dates lengthwise, cutting just enough (but not all the way through) to remove the pits. Fill the cavities of the dates with a scant teaspoon of blue cheese, depending on their size. Save extra cheese for another use. Sprinkle dates with chopped almonds, and arrange in the baking pan. (Dates can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before baking.)
3. Bake dates until warm and cheese has melted, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and arrange on a small serving plate or place them in a long, narrow olive tray. Serve warm.  Makes 12 dates.
Note: To toast almonds, arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until lightly browned, about 5 to 6 minutes for sliced almonds. Watch carefully so nuts do not burn. Remove and cool.

From My Table to Yours—Happy Holidays!

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 Dear Readers,
Thanks to all of you who have followed my blog and website throughout this past year. Your comments and feedback have been invaluable, and I hope to stay in touch in the new year with more recipes, reports from Paris and London, and tips on hot new restaurants, great kitchen tools, and the latest cookbooks.
And, speaking of cookbooks, my newest one, Sunday Brunch (from Chronicle) will make its debut this spring, and I’ll also be giving classes in New England at Different Drummer’s Kitchen in Northampton, Massachusetts, so stay tuned here or check my Facebook page and Twitter feed.
I wish you all delicious holidays and a healthy and glorious 2012.  Betty

5 Great Gifts Under $50 For The Food Lovers On Your List!

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Many of you told me how much you liked my 2010 list of gifts for foodies so here are my favorites for 2011!

Emile Henri Artisan Ruffled Pie Dish

I love the rustic look of this unique pie plate, and would definitely use it to create pies and tarts with deep, wavy sides.   $44

Wms Sonoma Peppermint Bark

This peppermint bark is one of my favorite gifts to send friends and family. It comes in an attractive tin, and oh, did I mention that this chocolate-coated bark is addictive.   $26.95 for a 1-pound box

Essential Pepin by Jacques Pepin

Chef, teacher, cookbook author extraordinaire, Jacques Pepin is known as the master of great technique. His latest book boasts more than 700 recipes, including his all-time favorites. It’s a must for a serious foodie’s library.  $40.00

Two tea towels from Different Drummer’s Kitchen

The Different Drummer’s Kitchen, with stores in Northampton and Lenox, Massachusetts, and in Albany, New York, sells these adorable and very well made kitchen towels. One has a band of sheep (including a black one amongst the white) and another a row of cows. They’re from Elias Classics.  $15.95 each

J.K. Adams Artisan Bread Plank

I own one of these beautifully made bread planks, crafted by the J.K. Adams Company located in Vermont, and use it almost daily. I slice baguettes on it, arrange cheeses on it, and use it as an extra chopping board. The Different Drummer’s Kitchen in Northampton sells them if you live in western Massachusetts.  $44


 

A Sweet Gift from the Kitchen

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If you love to prepare treats from your kitchen as holiday gifts, you’ll want to try the following recipe for chocolate-coated toffee with almonds and walnuts. Last year around this time, my talented assistant, Diana, brought me a small carton filled with a cache of these addictive morsels.

I asked if she’d share her recipe, and was stunned to discover how easy this toffee was to prepare. “Three easy steps,” she smiled and explained. Continue reading →

A Great New Dish for Holiday Brunches

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Hash, that old breakfast standby of sautéed corned beef and potatoes, is having a come back, but in the newest versions, corned beef is not always de rigeur. Sautéed apples and smoked sausage or a sweet potato, red onion, and bacon mélange are typical examples of today’s inventive selections. Recently, I created the recipe featured here for Smoked Salmon, Fennel, and Potato Hash— a colorful, fresh, and delicious alternative to traditional corned beef versions, and a perfect addition to holiday brunches.

This one pairs flaked hot-smoked salmon with sautéed bits of fennel, chopped onions, and diced potatoes. Crushed fennel seeds and chopped lacy fennel fronds add a mild anise flavor. You can use this delectable hash as a side to serve with scrambled eggs, or for a little more visual drama, simply slid a poached or fried egg on top of each serving.

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The Thanksgiving Menu: A Last-Minute Trimming

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Photo by Susie Cushner
Yesterday at a book signing for my new book, Sunday Roasts, I offered samples of Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey mounded on baguette slices, topped with spoonfuls of glistening Cranberry and Dried Cherry Chutney.
Those who stopped by all commented on the moistness of the turkey, but what really caught their eye and their palate was the deep crimson chutney. One woman told me that she had not been pleased with her cranberry sauce the previous year, and was eager to try this chutney.
I’ve included this special condiment more than once in my Thanksgiving classes, and each time it turned out to be one of the most popular dishes on the menu. Everyone loves the balance of flavors—the sweetness of the cherries countered by the tartness of the cranberries.
If you’re still looking for a great complement to your bird, give this chutney a try. It takes about 10 minutes to prepare and can be made several days ahead. Store it in the fridge, and at serving time mound it in a bowl. Then watch your family and friends reach for seconds!

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