Just the Right Dish Whatever the Weather

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For the past week, I haven’t known what to cook (or to wear, for that matter).  One day it’s pouring down rain and cold, while another might arrive with plenty of sun and temperatures climbing into the 60s!  So, during this season of mercurial New England weather, I try to cook entrees that will work regardless of the forecast. Such dishes have robust tastes, but are accented by fresh spring ingredients.
Veal Stew with Spring Vegetables is a perfect example. Continue reading →

Hungry Mother, Cambridge, MA

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Hungry Mother 233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue, Kendall Square, Cambridge, MA 617-499-0090

Potato Gnocchi with Mushrooms and Pea Shoots at Hungry Mother

Hungry Mother in Cambridge, Massachusetts, is a restaurant I could return to week after week, for I know that I would never tire of the food. How to describe the cuisine and the rich menu? It has strong Southern country roots with sophisticated and original touches. Full disclosure: I was born and bred in Memphis, so soul food is in my DNA! Hungry Mother (the name of a state park in southern Virginia, the home state of talented chef, Barry Maiden) offers some of the most creative, enticing fare on either side of the Mason Dixon line. Continue reading →

Easter Best for Busy Cooks

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When it comes to Easter lunch, lamb gets the starring role on most menus. Many cooks opt for a roasted leg, but this year I will be short on time, so quickly prepared chops will get my attention. If you’re as overbooked as I am, the following recipe is the answer. Grilled rib chops topped with pats of delectable mint butter served with spring asparagus make a glorious yet easy entrée. Most of the work can be done ahead with only about10 minutes of grilling and a quick assembly needed at serving time.
A day ahead, prepare the scrumptious butter scented with fresh chopped mint and lemon.

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Meat – A Kitchen Education by James Patterson

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A long-time fan of James Patterson’s award-winning cookbooks, I was not surprised by the breadth and encyclopedic details in his newest work. Meat – A Kitchen Education is a tome that all serious cooks as well as inexperienced ones should own. This collection includes more than 175 recipes and over 550 photos (of both recipes and step-by step techniques). You’ll find in it a cornucopia of information about familiar as well as under-used meats. There are entries for chicken, turkey, and duck along with those for quail, pheasant, squab, guinea hen, goose, and rabbit. Chapters devoted to pork, lamb, goat, beef, and veal, with detailed information about Continue reading →

The Chives Are Up!

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According to the calendar, spring began several weeks ago. But it wasn’t until yesterday when I found chives peeking through my herb garden’s dry New England soil that I felt the new season had truly arrived. Seeing those slim little stems reaching up from the earth was enough to inspire me to get out Sunday Soup, a book I authored a few years ago, in search of the recipe for Sweet Pea Soup with Early Chives.
I found it on page 99, and had a pot simmering on my stovetop by 9 AM. It took only 45 minutes from start to finish, and made a perfect lunch for the trio of assistants who spent the day helping me prep for an upcoming cooking class.
A rich verdant green and silky smooth, this potage is simplicity itself. Sautéed leeks and peas (both fresh or frozen work beautifully) are simmered in chicken stock for several minutes until tender, pureed, and then enriched with sour cream. Seasonings of nutmeg and cayenne pepper add more flavor. And, those chives!  Well, they are sprinkled on top of each serving along with dollops of sour cream. In addition to providing a lively color accent and a mild peppery taste, they are a reminder that spring is definitely here!
Sweet Pea Soup with Early Chives
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts only (about 3 medium leeks)
5 cups fresh peas or frozen peas, patted dry (see note)
1 medium Yukon Gold potato (about 8 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more if needed
5 1/2 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup sour cream, divided
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chives 
Heat butter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add leeks and sauté, stirring until softened, for about 4 minutes. Add peas, potatoes, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook and stir a few seconds more. Add stock and bring mixture to a simmer. Reduce heat and cook at a gentle simmer until vegetables are very tender, for 15 to 20 minutes. 
Puree the soup in a food processor, blender, or food mill, and return the soup to the pot. (Or use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pot.) Whisk in 1/2 cup sour cream. Then whisk in the nutmeg and cayenne pepper. Use 1/8 teaspoon cayenne for a milder taste, 1/4 teaspoon for more heat. Taste soup and season with salt, as needed. (Soup can be made 1 day ahead; cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat, stirring, over medium-low heat.)
Ladle soup into 6 soup bowls and garnish the center of each serving with a dollop of the remaining sour cream and a sprinkle of chives.  Serves 6  
At the Market Note: Two and a half 10-ounce packages frozen peas will yield approximately 5 cups.  
From Sunday Soup (Chronicle Books 2008)

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Blueberries

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A classic Italian dessert, panna cotta (Italian for cooked cream) is a gloriously smooth custard made without eggs. It is bound with gelatin and served chilled. The recipe featured here is from Brian Alberg, chef at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge, Massachusetts. He cleverly uses buttermilk to add a bright tang to this confection, and to keep it from being cloying. Garnished with fresh blueberries and mint, this dessert is the answer when you want something that’s quick, make-ahead, and delicious.

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Risotto with Spring Asparagus and Scallops

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Among the more challenging dishes for home cooks is the ever-popular risotto. It requires patiently standing at the stove, slowly stirring simmering stock into a saucepan of sautéed aborio rice and onions. As the stock is added, a little at a time, the grains start to expand and soon absorb the flavorful liquid. For a typical recipe, you can count on about 20 minutes for this process. Continue reading →

It’s All In The Skillet!

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My husband says that I am a “messy” cook. What he means is that I use far more pots and pans when cooking than he thinks is necessary, especially since he’s the chief dishwasher at our house. My quick response goes something like this. “If you want boring food, I can be neat in the kitchen!”  Typically the conversation winds down after that.
Well, the following recipe will definitely please my spouse (and dishwashers everywhere!). As the name implies, a single pan is all you need to prepare it. Continue reading →

Time to Tap the Maples!

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In New England where I live the maple- tapping season begins around mid- February and lasts four to six weeks. People come from miles away to visit farms with maple groves where buckets hang from tree trunks to catch the sap. When this liquid is boiled down, it turns into a rich, golden syrup.       
The tapping season always inspires me take advantage of this beautiful “liquid gold.”  I love to drizzle pure maple syrup over a stack of pancakes, a plate of waffles, or a platter of French toast.  But, I also use this delicious syrup in less traditional ways. Instead of sugar it makes a fine sweetener for whipped cream to serve with a slice of apple pie, or it can be combined with fresh lime juice to enhance mashed sweet potatoes or butternut squash. Continue reading →