Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, Walnuts, and Rosemary

Years ago when my husband and I were newly married, we were invited to dinner one night by another young couple, both of whom were Italian. Although the entire meal was delicious, the dish I remember best was their gnocchi made with farina. Gnocchi (Italian for dumplings) can be prepared with potatoes, flour, or farina, and are usually enriched with eggs and cheese. Today, flour-based gnocchi are fashionably popular, but farina ones have long been my favorite. These gnocchi, garnished with crumbled gorgonzola, chopped walnuts, and minced fresh rosemary can be assembled ahead and served as a first course or a side dish.
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A Chocolate Lover’s Cheesecake

A friend of mine from long ago was a talented caterer who specialized in chocolate desserts. Less than 5 feet tall and tipping the scales at around 90 pounds, she openly confessed to me once that she weighed herself every morning just to see how much chocolate she could eat each day. I never weigh in, but over the years, I have indulged in some type of chocolate as a daily practice. Years of teaching have taught me that plenty of others share this habit. Continue reading →

Let The Good Times Roll

I am all set for Mardi Gras, which falls this year on Tuesday, March 8th.  For the past few weeks I’ve been testing dishes for a new cookbook, Sunday Brunch. One of my favorite recipes from the collection has turned out to be shrimp and grits. From the first bite, I knew that these extra creamy grits, seasoned with two cheeses and topped with a spicy tomato, shrimp, and andouille sausage mélange, were redolent of New Orleans. 
An all-in one casserole, these grits would be perfect to serve for a weekend brunch celebration. Add a mixed greens salad tossed in a red wine vinaigrette, either warm crusty baguettes or cornbread, and, of course, a little bubbly for toasting. For a light finish combine orange segments, fresh pineapple slices, and blueberries garnished with mint. If you want to be truly authentic with your caffeine offering, check at the super market for French Market Coffee and Chicory (www.frenchmarketcoffee.com). This terrific dark brew has a hint of chicory just like the cups of java in the French Quarter.
Mardi Gras colors are purple, yellow, and green, if you’re searching for inspiration for the table. And, for music, consider playing some Wynton Marsalis, the Neville Brothers, or classic Louis Armstrong. “Laissez les bon temps rouler.”
Spicy Shrimp and Grits
Grits
1 cup old fashioned (not instant or quick) grits
3/ 4 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed
3/4 cup grated sharp white cheddar cheese, divided
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Spicy Shrimp
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 ounces andouille sausage, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/3 cup chopped green onion (including 2 inches of green stems)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, plus more if needed
One 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained well
1 pound medium shrimp (30 count), peeled and deveined with tails left on
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
Butter a shallow, 2-quart oven-to-table baking dish.
Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a large, heavy saucepan (with a lid) set over medium high heat. Pour the grits in slowly. Then add the salt and whisk well.  
When mixture comes to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and cover pan.  Cook the grits at a gentle simmer, stirring every 3 to 4 minutes, so that they do not stick to the bottom of the pan. Cook until the grits have thickened, about 15 minutes or according to package directions.
Remove the grits from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of the cheddar and all of the Parmesan cheese. Season with black pepper, cayenne pepper, and more salt if needed. Spread the grits in an even layer in the prepared pan and sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup cheddar over the top. (Grits can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before baking.)
To bake the grits, arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Bake grits until they are  hot and the cheese has melted on top, about 25 minutes. If you would like to brown the cheese on top, arrange an oven rack 4 to 5 inches from the broiler and turn on broiler. Broil until the cheese starts to brown lightly, 2 to 3 minutes.
While the grits are in the oven, prepare the shrimp. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet set over medium heat. When hot, add sausage and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the green onions and garlic and stir 1 minute.  Add the tomatoes and cayenne pepper and stir 2 minutes more. Finally, add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until they turn pink and curl, about 4 minutes. Season the mixture with salt and black pepper. (For a spicier taste, add additional cayenne.) 
To serve, spoon the shrimp mixture down the center on top of the grits. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the shrimp.
Serves 6

Le Casse Noix 56, Paris, France

Le Casse Noix 56, rue de la Fédération, Paris 15, Paris 01-45-66-09-01

Le Casse Noix, a new bistro located in Paris 15th arrondissement not far from the Eiffel Tower, was a great discovery on my most recent trip to the City of Light. Chef Pierre-Olivier Lenormand, who has cooked at the celebrated La Régalade in the 14th and also at such temples of gastronomy as Jamin and the Crillon Hotel, turns out excellent seasonal creations, all at a very reasonable prix fixe. Continue reading →

Oscar’s Popcorn

Oscar’s Popcorn
Sunday night I plan to be in front of the TV when the 83rd Academy Awards Show gets underway.  From the red-carpet segment to the sign-off several hours later, I’ll be glued to the screen. Broadcast from the Hollywood Kodak Theatre, and co-hosted this year by Anne Hathaway and James Franco, the show will undoubtedly have surprises even though movie critics seem certain that the big winners will be “The King’s Speech” for Best Picture, and Colin Firth and Natalie Portman for Best Actors. 
Food and Oscars have been a long tradition for many of us. One of my former assistants hosts a dinner where guests are encouraged to come dressed as their favorite movie star.  In the past, I’ve planned pre-Oscar suppers where I handed out voting ballots, and even set up a betting pool.
One constant for all Oscar parties is popcorn. Can you imagine watching the awards without a bowl of America’s favorite movie food at your side?  Just to keep things interesting, here are four ways to season those popped kernels. Use as much or as little of the ingredients as you like, tossing the popcorn until you are pleased with the balance of flavors.
1.     Melted unsalted butter, finely grated Parmesan, and sea salt
2.     Melted unsalted butter, sea salt, and coarsely ground black pepper
3.     Olive oil, crushed dried rosemary, and sea salt
4.     Truffle oil (this is a slight extravagance but so good!) and sea salt
If you want a printable ballot, try:
http://www.moviefone.com/oscars-academy-awards/nominee-winner/printable-ballot

A Day in the Life of a Cookbook Author


A few weeks ago the folks at Chronicle Books, the publisher of my Sunday Soup and Sunday Roasts (coming this fall) asked if I would continue the series with Sunday Brunch. The manuscript was due in only a few months’ time, but I agreed knowing that there would be long days spent creating, testing, and fine-tuning recipes for brunches. The calendar of an average day gives you an idea of what’s entailed in writing a cookbook under pressure:

8 AM—Grab quick breakfast of toasted French bread and butter.

8:30 AM—Follow my husband to take his car to repair shop. He knocked off the right side mirror backing out of the garage, and blamed it on the bad weather. This is the 4th time he’s demolished that same mirror; the other three times, it wasn’t snowing.


9:00 AM- Return home. Set up mise en place trays for testing, foolishly optimistic that I would get through four dishes for the new book.

10 AM- Assistants, Mary and Ron, arrive.

10:30 AM Start on Eggs Benedict prepared with wedges of cornbread studded with andouille sausage and a spicy Hollandaise. Made cornbread in 8-inch skillet, but the result was too high and not enough sausage. Redo in 9-inch skillet. Make hollandaise in food processor; spill half of melted butter, and start over. Increase cayenne pepper for spicy accent for the sauce three times until right. Poach eggs. Assemble dish. Unfortunate color combo—hollandaise with cayenne is same hue as yellow cornbread.  Addition of sliced tomatoes corrects monotone situation. Dish looks great, but cornbread still too high. Ron agrees to retest in his kitchen using a 10-inch skillet.

12 PM Tart Cherry and Almond Muffins recipe calls for almond paste, which comes in a tube sealed with metal brackets. Have to find pliers to get the brackets off.  Almond paste and butter fail to combine well in mixer, because I forget to crumble the paste. Finally get mixture smooth and assemble batter. My muffin tins are bigger than what is called for so have to adjust for size difference. Muffins are gorgeous, but stick to nonstick pan and hard to unmold. Decide to spray “nonstick” pans on next try.

1PM- My weekly house cleaners (and fabulous tasters) arrive. They sample and critique muffins as well as Espresso Coffee Cake made another day. Both dishes get a thumbs up.

1:30 PM Assemble Souffléed Eggs with Ricotta and Spinach. Recipe calls for sautéed
bacon, but want to try with pancetta.  Make half of dish with bacon and half with Italian counterpart. Dish cooks 10 minutes quicker than my notes indicate. Pancetta wins over bacon.

2:00 PM Move to my office to fine-tune the three recipes tested. Will save fourth recipe, Potato and Onion Galettes, for another day.

3:00 PM Assistants leave with muffins for their partners. I return to office to answer emails with review sheets from volunteers testing recipes for book.

4:00 PM Pick up my husband at his college, return to car garage. Learn that the wrong mirror had been ordered!

5:00 PM Go over testers’ reviews sheets to correct for any problems they had.

7:00 PM My spouse, in the kitchen, grading papers, emails me on the second floor, saying “I’m hungry! When is supper?”

7:05 PM Reheat spaghetti and tomato sauce; make garlic bread. Eat quickly and return to testers’ reviews in office.

8:00 PM Call it a day.  Write out schedule for tomorrow.

* Photo of Souffléed Eggs with Ricotta and Pancetta from forthcoming Sunday Brunch.

Weeknight Fresh and Fast by Kristine Kidd

If you want to eat well during the week, but don’t have a lot of time to spend in the kitchen, Weeknight Fresh & Fast, a new Williams-Sonoma book, is the answer. Kristine Kidd, former food editor at Bon Appétit Magazine, has assembled a mouthwatering collection of quick and healthy recipes that call for fresh seasonal ingredients. Conveniently organized by seasons, every chapter features 25 main courses, each accompanied by a full-page photo. From spring Risotto with Leeks and Sugar Snaps and summer Grilled Chicken and Corn with Smoked Paprika Rub to Molasses-Glazed Roast Pork and Sweet Potatoes for cold weather cooking, you’ll find a cornucopia of tempting entrees to try. There are also suggestions for side dishes and tips for putting leftovers to use later in the week.

Weeknight Fresh and Fast by Kristine Kidd
Weldon Owen Publishers 2011
$29.95

Bon Appétit, Julia!

My friend, Connie Wenzel-Jordan, reminded me that this week marks the 48th anniversary of the first episode of The French Chef on WGBH in Boston.
On February 11, 1963, that station broadcast the initial show of the cooking series that turned Julia Child into a popular icon. One of the first such series on television, Child’s was done live and videotaped. Her occasional cooking accidents became classic and her aplomb at handling them her trademark. For the next ten years, the show was produced by WGBH and distributed to PBS stations across the country. 
Julia’s passion for French cuisine and all things culinary changed the way America cooked. She introduced home chefs to shallots, leeks, fresh herbs, croissants, baguettes, unsalted butter, and French cheeses. She also taught them the difference between poaching, braising, and sautéing, and how to chop, dice, and slice.
I certainly owe my career to her. When I was newly married, my husband gave me a copy of her Mastering the Art of French Cooking, desperately hoping that I would take a hint.  I cooked my way through that tome and never missed Julia on tv, hamming it up as she prepared sophisticated French specialties.
Julia’s legacy is indelible. Her Mastering the Art of French Cooking was on the NYT best seller list in 2009, the same year the movie “Julie and Julia,” debuted celebrating her life and that of a young blogger, Julie Powell. 
In a few weeks, I’ll teach a class called “Cooking With Julia.”  The centerpiece of the night’s menu will be boeuf à la bourguignonne, a fork-tender beef and mushroom stew The French Chef made famous. I’d like to say “Bon appétit, Julia!
* The photo of Julia Child cooking with her classmate and fellow cook, Charlotte Turgeon, at their 1964 Smith College 30th reunion was taken by Margaret Sussman (also a member of the class) and is reproduced by permission of the Smith College Archives.

Roasted Cod on a Potato Gratin

It’s not often that a restaurant dish is both so delicious and so simple that I can’t wait to try it in my own kitchen. Last month in Paris I had such an experience at a new bistro called Le Casse Noix. (The restaurant is this month’s featured item on the “Out and About” section of my website.) The main course that caught my eye and palate was roasted cod served atop a gratin of potatoes, an unlikely combination that worked beautifully.

The chef had fashioned a delectable mixture of potatoes and bits of ham seasoned with piment d’Espelette (a dried pepper powder similar to cayenne), and then transferred them to individual baking dishes. He sprinkled the servings with cheese, and finally added a thick, snowy white cod fillet to each. Continue reading →