Meat – A Kitchen Education by James Patterson

A long-time fan of James Patterson’s award-winning cookbooks, I was not surprised by the breadth and encyclopedic details in his newest work. Meat – A Kitchen Education is a tome that all serious cooks as well as inexperienced ones should own. This collection includes more than 175 recipes and over 550 photos (of both recipes and step-by step techniques). You’ll find in it a cornucopia of information about familiar as well as under-used meats. There are entries for chicken, turkey, and duck along with those for quail, pheasant, squab, guinea hen, goose, and rabbit. Chapters devoted to pork, lamb, goat, beef, and veal, with detailed information about Continue reading

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Blueberries

A classic Italian dessert, panna cotta (Italian for cooked cream) is a gloriously smooth custard made without eggs. It is bound with gelatin and served chilled. The recipe featured here is from Brian Alberg, chef at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge, Massachusetts. He cleverly uses buttermilk to add a bright tang to this confection, and to keep it from being cloying. Garnished with fresh blueberries and mint, this dessert is the answer when you want something that’s quick, make-ahead, and delicious.

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Risotto with Spring Asparagus and Scallops

Among the more challenging dishes for home cooks is the ever-popular risotto. It requires patiently standing at the stove, slowly stirring simmering stock into a saucepan of sautéed aborio rice and onions. As the stock is added, a little at a time, the grains start to expand and soon absorb the flavorful liquid. For a typical recipe, you can count on about 20 minutes for this process. Continue reading

Hermès, Paris, France

Hermès on Paris’s Left Bank 17, rue de Sèvres, Paris 6 01-42-22-80-83

Although I own only two Hermès items–scarves that were gifts from students—I couldn’t wait to visit the new Hermès shop on the Left Bank in Paris. The just-opened (November 2010) flagship emporium, in the 6th arrondissement on the rue de Sèvres, boasts stunning interior architecture. This three-level boutique has tall (more than 25 feet) sculptural, latticed wood cages that enclose home furnishings. A stairway with massive curved wooden sides is a sculptural marvel. Almost half of the store is dedicated to home items, including arts for the table. There’s a bookstore, with art and design tomes, as well as a flower shop, Baptiste, right at the entrance, that displays some of Paris’s most beautiful blooms. I was only looking, but enjoyed every minute of my stroll through this special addition to Paris’s shopping scene.

As Always, Julia – The Letters of Julia Child and Avis Devoto by Joan Reardon

A collection of letters written in the 1950s between Julia Child and her pen pal, Avis Devoto, this book reveals a fascinating correspondence between two women, both avid fans of French cooking, living on opposite sides of the Atlantic. Julia was in France when she read an article on knives in Harper’s magazine by Bernard Devoto (Avis’s journalist/ historian husband who taught at Harvard). In his piece he was crusading for American women to find good carbon steel kitchen knives, and Julia responded by sending him a French “couteau.” Avis wrote the thank you for her spouse, and the long correspondence began. A well connected book reviewer in the Boston area, Avis became Julia’s champion, Continue reading

Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, Walnuts, and Rosemary

Years ago when my husband and I were newly married, we were invited to dinner one night by another young couple, both of whom were Italian. Although the entire meal was delicious, the dish I remember best was their gnocchi made with farina. Gnocchi (Italian for dumplings) can be prepared with potatoes, flour, or farina, and are usually enriched with eggs and cheese. Today, flour-based gnocchi are fashionably popular, but farina ones have long been my favorite. These gnocchi, garnished with crumbled gorgonzola, chopped walnuts, and minced fresh rosemary can be assembled ahead and served as a first course or a side dish.
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A Chocolate Lover’s Cheesecake

A friend of mine from long ago was a talented caterer who specialized in chocolate desserts. Less than 5 feet tall and tipping the scales at around 90 pounds, she openly confessed to me once that she weighed herself every morning just to see how much chocolate she could eat each day. I never weigh in, but over the years, I have indulged in some type of chocolate as a daily practice. Years of teaching have taught me that plenty of others share this habit. Continue reading

Le Casse Noix 56, Paris, France

Le Casse Noix 56, rue de la Fédération, Paris 15, Paris 01-45-66-09-01

Le Casse Noix, a new bistro located in Paris 15th arrondissement not far from the Eiffel Tower, was a great discovery on my most recent trip to the City of Light. Chef Pierre-Olivier Lenormand, who has cooked at the celebrated La Régalade in the 14th and also at such temples of gastronomy as Jamin and the Crillon Hotel, turns out excellent seasonal creations, all at a very reasonable prix fixe. Continue reading

Weeknight Fresh and Fast by Kristine Kidd

If you want to eat well during the week, but don’t have a lot of time to spend in the kitchen, Weeknight Fresh & Fast, a new Williams-Sonoma book, is the answer. Kristine Kidd, former food editor at Bon Appétit Magazine, has assembled a mouthwatering collection of quick and healthy recipes that call for fresh seasonal ingredients. Conveniently organized by seasons, every chapter features 25 main courses, each accompanied by a full-page photo. From spring Risotto with Leeks and Sugar Snaps and summer Grilled Chicken and Corn with Smoked Paprika Rub to Molasses-Glazed Roast Pork and Sweet Potatoes for cold weather cooking, you’ll find a cornucopia of tempting entrees to try. There are also suggestions for side dishes and tips for putting leftovers to use later in the week.

Weeknight Fresh and Fast by Kristine Kidd
Weldon Owen Publishers 2011
$29.95

Roasted Cod on a Potato Gratin

It’s not often that a restaurant dish is both so delicious and so simple that I can’t wait to try it in my own kitchen. Last month in Paris I had such an experience at a new bistro called Le Casse Noix. (The restaurant is this month’s featured item on the “Out and About” section of my website.) The main course that caught my eye and palate was roasted cod served atop a gratin of potatoes, an unlikely combination that worked beautifully.

The chef had fashioned a delectable mixture of potatoes and bits of ham seasoned with piment d’Espelette (a dried pepper powder similar to cayenne), and then transferred them to individual baking dishes. He sprinkled the servings with cheese, and finally added a thick, snowy white cod fillet to each. Continue reading