Nothing is a bigger thrill for me, even when it’s freezing outside, than to go to Paris’ Marche Bio. (See my detailed description of this outdoor food market under “Out and About” on my website). Even my spouse, an avowed non-cook, finds this French food market fascinating. Sunday, our haul included winter vegetables, great mushrooms, and some delicious prosciutto known as jambon de Parme over here. I used it all for a menu that starred the savory pasta dish that follows. The recipe, which takes about 45 minutes  from start to finish, makes a perfect cold weather main course.

Pappardelle with Cauliflower, Leeks, and Mushrooms

12 ounces shiitake mushrooms  

4 tablespoons olive oil

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided  (See note.)

3 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts only

1 pound pappardelle (If these wide pasta strands are unavailable, use fettuccine.)

Kosher salt

1/2 cup grated Parmesan, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano

Remove the stems from the mushrooms and save for another use or discard. Wipe the mushrooms clean with a dampened paper towel and slice them into 1/2 inch-wide julienne strips.

Remove the base from the cauliflower and cut the head into florets. Cut the florets into 1/4 inch slices to yield 3 cups.

Heat the oil and 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy skillet set over medium heat. When hot, add the mushrooms and leeks, and cook, stirring often, until both are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. (Mushrooms and leeks can be prepared 4 hours ahead; leave at room temperature and reheat over medium heat, stirring.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower slices and cook until tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove with a strainer or a slotted spoon to drain. Add the pasta to the pot and cook according to the package directions. Drain well in a colander and return the pasta to the pot. Stir in the remaining butter until it has melted. Then add the leeks and mushrooms and the cauliflower. Toss to mix. Season the mixture well with salt.

Mound the pasta in shallow bowls or on dinner plates, and garnish each serving with a good sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Pass extra cheese separately in a bowl. Serves 4 to 5 generously as a main course.

Note: Don’t skimp on the butter as it provides great flavor and keeps the pasta from being dry.

Lucky that our flight to Paris from Boston was 36 hours after the blizzard of the year hit New England, we touched down at De Gaulle Airport in perfect weather. Whew. Then, we hit something worse than a blizzard: the baggage handlers at De Gaulle Airport. Thirty minutes went by, then an hour, then another 30 minutes: still no bags. The Air France officials were quite helpful: “Not enough containers.” We began making friends with the other frustrated passengers. Finally, a full two hours after landing, our suitcases appeared on the conveyor belt. As I learned from our taxi driver, 10,000 bags had been abandoned at the airport during Paris’ own weather-related turmoil. Still, it took us longer to get our luggage than it took to drive from Amherst to Boston!

At our small apartment rental, my husband and I started to set up our computers. His connected right away, but mine met with a glitch. Two hours went by (a familiar time frame) and several emergency phone calls were made to the States. I, famished and not wanting to panic, went out to buy dinner.

At a favorite bakery I bought a crusty pain de campagne and a ficelle aux lardons (a thin baguette studded with bacon). Next I picked up cheeses –a smoked chèvre, a slice of Roquefort, and another of Comté (a buttery cheese that looks like Gruyère).  At a charcuterie, I purchased perfectly roasted potatoes and steamed winter vegetables. Finally, at the local grocery, I found beautifully trimmed lamb chops packaged with pats of beurre aux fines herbes and some flageolets, those light green, kidney-shaped beans that complement lamb so well, but have yet to find their way to our grocery shelves.

Back in my tiny kitchen, I quickly sautéed the chops, topped them with the herbed butter, and reheated the vegetables and beans. At that moment, my husband announced that I was again on line! Our delicious, but simple dinner tasted even better, causing the travails of our voyage to vanish completely!  We finished with cheeses and bread, and remembered why we love to come to France, baggage or no baggage—for the food, of course. 

Beurre Aux Fines Herbes

For my version place 4 tablespoons of softened, unsalted butter in a bowl; stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs (a combo of tarragon, parsley, and chives with an emphasis on the tarragon). Add 1 to 1 1 /2 teaspoons white wine vinegar to balance the sweetness of the butter and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Mix well with a fork.  Roll into a log and cut into rounds to serve atop sautéed, grilled, or broiled lamb chops.

Dear Readers,

Although this blog and website are only a month old, many have already visited. I’d like to thank each of you who have read my posts and clicked on all those different pages on my new site. I love this high tech (well for me anyway!) way of keeping in touch with others who love food and cooking.

There’s a lot on the schedule for the new year—reports from Paris, new recipes to stave off the cold for those who live in chilly climes, and tips on the latest cookbooks, kitchen tools, and food trends. Stay tuned!

Meanwhile, I’d like to wish each of you joyful holidays filled with delectable indulgences and a happy and healthy 2011!

                                    Betty

This is the time of year when I feel like I’m a doctor on call. The other day at a lesson with my computer guru, the teacher only wanted to talk about eggnog. During my Christmas cooking class last week, the Q and A lasted so long that the course ended late. At the supermarket, friends greet me with questions about the roasts and birds they’ve chosen for their holiday menus, and as December 25^th approaches, there will be urgent emails and frantic phone calls. Everyone seems to want recipes (or should I say prescriptions!) for dishes that are extra special yet failsafe.   

Roasted Scallops with Tarragon Mustard Butter delivers on both fronts. The shellfish are arranged in individual scallop shells, dotted with a flavorful butter, and then roasted for about 12 minutes. A garnish of golden toasted bread crumbs adds color and texture. Both the butter and bread crumbs can be prepared a day ahead so there’s no last-minute stress. These succulent scallops floating in pools of melted herbed butter would make a showstopper beginning for a Christmas or a New Year’s Eve dinner.

If you have any questions about the recipe or about holiday entertaining, I’m “on call.” Just send me a note via “comments” on this post, and I’ll answer as soon as I can!

6 scallop shells, crème brûlée dishes, or 1/2 cup ramekins

William Sonoma Cooking at Home and Bon Appétit Desserts

These two huge books deliver big bang for your bucks. The first, authored by Chuck Williams, the founder of Williams Sonoma, and Kristine Kidd, a former food editor for Bon Appétit, includes 1000 recipes and is priced at $34.95 (Weldon Owen Publishers). The other, written by former Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Barbara Fairchild, boasts 600 delectable confections and costs $40 (Andrews McMeel Publishing). As a bonus you get a year’s subscription to the magazine with your purchase of the Bon Appétit book. Both are available in bookstores and at Amazon.com.

These extra thin, sleek tumblers would make a great present for those who love to entertain. I have found multiple uses for them. They’re great as chic glasses or as cups for desserts like sundaes. I also use them as vases. I fill them with flowers and arrange several on my holiday table. They are $4 each. You can find them at www.conranusa.com. (search for Gio clear glass tumblers) and at The Conran Shop in ABC Carpet and Home in New York (on the lower level).  At the New York shop they even have these glasses attractively packaged in one of their boxes.

A real extravagance, this sea salt scented with bits of black truffle, packs a lot of flavor. My colleague, Elinor Klivans, told me about it, and now I’m hooked.  Sprinkle it on popcorn or scrambled eggs. Season polenta with it, or rub it on a good steak. This small bottle would be a great stocking stuffer. It’s $28 at Williams Sonoma (www.williams-sonoma.com) and also available at other cookware and food stores.

This is a “make-it-yourself” gift. Buy a round of English Stilton about 1 inch high at your favorite cheese shop. Then place it on a wicker tray and garnish with some pine or other Christmas greenery.  Surround the wheel with dried almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and dried apricots, cherries, raisins, and prunes. Wrap in cellophane and tie with ribbons. Keep refrigerated until you’re ready to give it to the lucky recipient.  A 1-inch round of Stilton purchased at Whole Foods cost me $48.