Asparagus Star in A Delicious Soup

Posted on June 26, 2014 by brosbottom

What I love about cooking in France is that the French are real sticklers for using seasonal ingredients. There’s no way you’d see asparagus in their groceries in the winter. (In my supermarkets at home, sadly I don’t have to look hard to find non-local asparagus from Chile displayed throughout the cold weather months.) In Paris bundles of the long, sleek spears appear only in late spring and early summer. And what a glorious scene they make— verdant-hued stalks, tender, petite wild asparagus, and snowy- hued white varieties take center stage at les primeurs (produce stores).

Since arriving several weeks ago, I’ve taken advantage of this bounty. At first, I used the stalks as a side to sautéed lamb chops or roast chicken, but then I got more imaginative and included them in a delicious brodo. Continue reading →

Gorgeous Artichokes in the Markets of Paris!

Posted on June 18, 2014 by brosbottom

The first thing I do when I arrive in the City of Light is to get out my rolling cart and head for the organic farmers’ market called Le Marché Bio. We had barely unpacked our bags when we headed to it a couple of Sundays ago. There in all their glory were the jewels of the farmers’ hard work—gorgeous little peas, strawberries that were red all the way through and decadently juicy, cherries so sweet they needed no embellishing, countless bouquets of fresh herbs, and stately artichokes—just possibly my favorite late spring vegetable!

Artichokes in France usually appear in two varieties: the small to medium ones are tinged with purple and call artichauts violets and the others, the incredibly large variety, are artichauts de Bretagne (from Brittany). I couldn’t resist and popped four of the latter in my bag to serve at a small dinner the next night.

Continue reading →

Special Burgers for Dad!

Posted on June 10, 2014 by brosbottom

My husband never met a burger he didn’t like, so what would be better to serve this dad of many years on June 15th than a hamburger decked out with all his favorite trimmings! He loves bold, vibrant food so I’ve been working on a version prepared with lean grass fed patties scented with a spicy mix of chili powder, cumin, and cayenne pepper. Instead of the usual cheddar or Colby, I’ve opted for Mahon, a Spanish cheese that melts lusciously into a smooth cover for the burgers. Avocado wedges tossed in lime juice, sliced red onions, plus some easy-to-make chipotle mayo will round out the garnishes.

Even though we are in Paris where the French are also preparing to celebrate “la fête des pères” this Sunday, I can find the makings for America’s quintessential sandwich without Continue reading →

New Orleans’ Vibrant Food Scene

Posted on May 29, 2014 by brosbottom

Irene's interior with our group 3648x2736

At Irene’s in the Quarter

Recently my husband and I were lucky enough to visit New Orleans for several days. No strangers to the Crescent City, we both spent our childhood visiting Louisiana’s most celebrated town and graduated from Tulane. However, we had not been back to NOLA since hurricane Katrina, and wondered how we would find the city after such devastation. We were thrilled to discover that New Orleans was thriving and vibrant once again. And nowhere was this more evident than in the city’s restaurant scene.

From the time our plane touched down at Louis Armstrong Airport, we began our food

Crispy soft shell crabs at Irene’s

odyssey. Friends met us and whisked us to Irene’s, an Italian restaurant in the French Quarter favored by locals. My spouse raved about oysters baked in their shells with Parmesan and pimentons, and adored soft shell crabs with toasted almonds and lemon.

For lunch one day we went to Commander’s Palace in the gorgeous Garden District, and feasted on more fish. Lightly sautéed Black Drum (a moist, white fish) garnished with fried leeks and crème brûlées creatively topped with fleurs de lys (the city’s official logo) fashioned with powdered sugar were memorable.

Pêche’s rustic interior

Our best meal though was at Pêche Seafood Grill, a bustling new restaurant in the city’s warehouse district. Owned by the same group that founded Cochon Restaurant near by, the eatery won two Beard awards this year (Best chef South and Best New Restaurant) and it’s easy to see why. The food prepared with local Continue reading →

Grilled Salmon with Spicy Apricot Lime Glaze for the Weekend

Posted on May 21, 2014 by brosbottom

My son, a consummate griller, has mentioned more than once a recipe he loves for grilled chicken wings flavored with apricot and lime. “Mom,” he has pleaded, “You’ve got to try this marinade. It’s sweet, tart, hot, and spicy all at the same time!” So when it finally got warm enough this spring to pull out our grill, I asked for the recipe. I tried it with chicken wings, and they were delicious, but, being a curious cook, I kept thinking of other ways to use the delectable marinade.

On a whim, I substituted salmon fillets for the chicken, and was thrilled with the results. The salmon needed far less time to marinate than the wings, and cooked more quickly as well. Best of all, though, the flavors melded beautifully with the fish. Apricot jam adds a sweet note, while lime juice and zest provide tartness. Ginger, garlic, and a hit of sriracha contribute heat, and soy sauce, a salty accent. Continue reading →

Great Flavors at a New Thai and Rotisserie Grill in NYC

Posted on May 14, 2014 by brosbottom

During a quick visit to The Big Apple last week, my husband and I had dinner at Uncle Boon’s, a new Thai and Rotisserie Grill downtown in Nolita. It took several tries to book, since this modest-sized restaurant sets aside only a few reservations, encouraging walk-ins instead. I persevered on line, booking a table for two, and hit the jackpot! Cozy and unpretentious, Uncle Boon’s delivered tempting dishes with bold, multi-layered flavors.

Crispy Frog Legs with Noodles, Lemongrass and Thai Herbs Salad

I started with a sautéed chopped lamb salad with cucumbers, mint, shallots, and chiles, a dish with plenty of heat, My spouse tried crispy frog legs served over glass noodles garnished with a lemongrass and Thai herb salad. Both were delicious. For mains my boneless beef short ribs were fork tender and extra spicy. But, definitely, the winning dish of the evening was my husband’s roasted duck leg served in a sublime soy anise broth along with a caramelized tangerine and a steamed duck egg. (I went to sleep dreaming about that beautifully seasoned broth!)

Duck Leg in Soy Anise Broth Uncle Boons NY 1

Roasted Duck Leg in Soy Anise Broth

Continue reading →

A Glorious Cake for Mother’s Day

Posted on May 7, 2014 by brosbottom

Years ago as a fledging syndicated columnist, I created a delectable genoise cake with pineapple rum buttercream icing. I didn’t worry for a minute that this dessert called for a hefty 3 sticks of butter and that it included multiple steps. Since this gateau has remained a personal favorite, I recently gave the recipe a facelift for Mother’s Day, reducing the butter, and streamlining the directions.

Genoise (from French for Genoese referring to Genoa) is the name of a sponge cake made with eggs, sugar, and vanilla. These ingredients are warmed over a pan of simmering water, then beaten in an electric mixer for several minutes until they have tripled in volume. Flour and melted butter are folded in next. When baked, this style of cake is golden and feathery light. For my genoise, I created an extra special buttercream icing with fresh pineapple. To make it, a pineapple sugar syrup is gradually beaten into egg yolks and then bits of softened butter are whipped in until the mixture is silken smooth. A touch of dark rum adds even more flavor. Continue reading →

Spring Cooking—Delicious Risotto

Posted on May 1, 2014 by brosbottom

Will spring ever arrive?” is the question on everyone’s mind in our small New England town. After one of the longest and harshest winters in years, we are desperate for the season of renewal to begin in full force, but temperatures are way below normal and rains seem to be never ending.

There are glimmers of hope— daffodils are blooming, yards have returned to a verdant hue, and in the markets there are stately bundles of asparagus, gorgeous peas, and bunches of tender spring onions, all harbingers of the season (even if not all local). This produce has been heartening and prompted me to cook lighter, vegetable-inspired dishes like spring risotto studded with sliced sugar snaps and fresh peas. Continue reading →

Using those Easter Leftovers for Delicious Panini!

Posted on April 24, 2014 by brosbottom

Last week I wrote glowingly of my suggestion that our family make racks of lamb the centerpiece of our Easter dinner. As it turned out, I was outvoted, and our clan decided on baked ham instead. My son chose a Niman Ranch spiral-cut one that was delicious with grilled asparagus and baby Yukon Golds roasted with garlic and rosemary. I confess, though, that what I liked best about this Easter ham was using the leftovers for inventive sandwiches like the ham and cheese panini with apple slaw featured here.

For these panini, I used a nice crusty bread and topped slices with thinly cut ham, some shaved Munster, and a simple apple slaw. (I don’t own a panini maker, but a stove top grill pan filled in easily, and if you don’t have either, a heavy skillet will work too.) It was the apple slaw that gave these sandwiches their panache. Finely julienned Granny Smith apple was paired with shredded cabbage and then tossed in a cider vinegar dressing. A hint of cayenne and some chopped basil added extra flavor. Continue reading →

Easter Lamb with a Twist

Posted on April 16, 2014 by brosbottom

Photo by Susie Cushner

My son and I have been on the phone several times this week planning Easter dinner for our family. We’ve been back and forth about what should anchor the meal—baked ham, roast lamb, or even grilled steaks. Even though not all of our family is crazy about lamb, I’ve been campaigning for delectable racks of lamb served with whipped goat cheese and roasted cherry tomatoes.

This recipe, which I created several years ago for my book, Sunday Roasts, is elegant, yet simple. The racks are marinated in a classic mix of olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic, then quickly browned and roasted until rosy pink inside. What sets this dish apart from others, though, is its unusual garnishes. Roasted cherry tomatoes and dollops of creamy whipped goat cheese scented with lemon and fresh dill make perfect partners for the chops. Continue reading →

Betty Rosbottom

Food Writer, Cookbook Author, Cooking Teacher

Author Archives: brosbottom