I Left My Heart, No Make That My Palate– in San Francisco

When the memo announcing the annual conference of the IACP, a culinary group I belong to, arrived, I was thrilled to discover that the meeting this year was scheduled in the city by the bay. It had been more than 10 years since I had visited San Francisco so I quickly signed up and booked my airline tickets.

Ferry Bldg Farmers' Market on a Tuesday -spring onionsLast week I spent 5 days in this food lover’s mecca- not nearly enough time to enjoy its many culinary splendors. What I remembered and what is still even more apparent today is that this metropolis’ food venues, whether restaurants, bistros, food trucks, or food stalls, all use fresh and local ingredients to turn out mouthwatering fare. Why wouldn’t they since the near-by countryside is dotted with an abundance of farms, vineyards, ranches, and dairies.

Il Cane Rosso

Il Cane Rosso

Every day I seemed to find my way to the Ferry Building, an historic structure located along the Embarcadero. The building is a transit hub, but more important, it houses an outstanding marketplace of cafés, casual restaurants, cheese shops, butchers, fishmongers, bakeries, chocolate boutiques, and much more. At Il Cane Rosso, a small eatery owned and run by Lauren Kiino, I loved my curried chicken salad on a fresh, crispy baguette as well as an ethereally smooth rutabaga soup garnished simply with a slick of smoked paprika oil.

Miette Bakery

Miette Bakery

A picture-perfect lemon cup cake topped with swirls of lemon buttercream and a delectable banana cream tart with a hidden chocolate layer from Miette, a charming bakery, satisfied my sweet cravings. My husband stood in line for a cup of famous Blue Bottle Coffee, and declared his iced brew perfect. The Cowgirl Creamery displayed cheeses that rival those of France, and Recchiuti Confections boasted beautiful chocolate creations. Continue reading

Springing Forward with a Delicious Asparagus Soup

Asparagus Soup with Lemon Creme Fraiche 2According to the calendar, spring officially arrived several weeks ago, but you’d never know it from our weather here in New England. Yes, we had a few days where the temperature actually reached into the fifties, but mostly it’s been damp and cold, and no one is rushing to put away their winter gear.

Even though it’s still hovering in the low forties outside, I’m tired of winter cooking and ready to spring forward in my kitchen. This week, for instance, I made an ethereally smooth asparagus and leek soup, lightened it with lemon-scented crème fraîche, then added a sprinkle of snipped chives.

The soup turned out to be ideal for this transitional time of the year.  Continue reading

A Casserole for Every Season

Baked Salmon and Spring Vegetables 1

It’s a big week for me. I am putting the finishing touches on my latest book, Sunday Casseroles! Over the past year, I have spent hours with a talented team of assistants poring over ideas for the recipes in this collection. I wanted to update many classic  casseroles (think mac and cheese with a hint of crème fraîche), and invent enticing new ones.

 Heavily salted canned soups called for in the casseroles of yesteryear were banished, and replaced with easily made sauces. Fresh vegetables appear in countless dishes, and instead of pouring bread crumbs from a box, I opted for quickly toasting homemade ones in a skillet. Continue reading

Corned Beef and Roasted Cabbage with a New Twist!

A few years ago I wrote about one of my assistants who asked me for help with a SaintCorned Beef with Roasted Cabbage and Potatoes 1 Patrick’s Day menu. She was anxious to update her usual main course of corned beef and cabbage, so I offered a few suggestions. Why not roast the cabbage and the potatoes instead of boiling them with the corned beef? I also proposed that the meat be cooked with a medley of root vegetables and herbs to enhance its taste.

These small changes resulted in delicious results. After several hours of simmering, the corned beef is fork tender and beautifully infused (just like a French pot au feu) with the flavor of carrots, onions, and celery. The cabbage, cut into large strips, is sautéed, then roasted until tender and lightly browned. Red-skin potatoes wedges, baked alongside the cabbage, are golden on the outside and tender beneath. Continue reading

Cooking Like A French Chef- Bien Sûr!

Sauteed Scallops and Shaved Brussels Sprouts with Polenta 1When in Paris, I make a point of going to small, new bistros, most of which are overseen by young French chefs. I book these tables because nowhere is the food more inventive or reasonably priced. These gifted cooks, who buy fresh seasonal ingredients and pair them in unusual ways, know no boundaries when it comes to creativity. My mouth still waters when I think of a perfectly sautéed cod fillet served on a gratin of potatoes laced with bits of ham and Gruyère that I sampled one cold winter night. At another bistro in mid-summer I savored every bite of that same fish set atop a colorful ratatouille. Succulent slices of roasted rib of beef offered with batons of blanched celery root and a garnish of crisp baby romaine leaves caught my eye and my palate on another visit.

In my kitchen, I often follow the philosophy of these talented cooks, combining seasonal ingredients simply but in unexpected ways. One such dish—Sautéed Scallops and Shaved Brussels Sprouts on Polenta–has become a favorite of my husband, and recently got high marks from two of my discerning (make that very picky!) assistants. Continue reading

Two Recipes with Two Super “Good For You” Ingredients

Farmers' Market Kale Salad with Raisins and Pine Nuts 1If asked to describe this winter, I wouldn’t talk about the snowfalls, the ice, or even the below- normal temperatures we’ve had in New England. What comes to my mind first is the incredible number of friends, family, and fellow workers who have come down with flus, stomach bugs, and debilitating colds. One week alone in my kitchen, two assistants arrived with colds and spent more time coughing and taking drops than cooking. I finally told them to go home and rest!

So, this past week when my March Better Homes and Gardens arrived, an article on six super foods- rich in vitamin, proteins, antioxidants– immediately got my attention. The nutritious six included blueberries, kiwis, kale, sweet potatoes, edamame, and goij berries. All but the latter–the goji berries–were familiar to me. Turns out these berries come from a medicinal plant that’s easy to grow, and taste especially good when dried and used like raisins.

Sweet Potato Hash Browns 1It didn’t take me long to check my own files (my blog posts, cookbooks, magazine articles) in search of recipes featuring these ingredients. To counter the season’s ills I found two delectable dishes I hadn’t prepared for several years. One was for a kale salad tossed with a simple yet perfectly balanced dressing made with lemon juice, maple syrup and olive oil. (The recipe came to me via a farmer at my local farmers market.) The other was for Roasted Sweet Potato Hash Browns from my book, Sunday Brunch.

Here’s hoping this duo will become part of your repertoire and that they will help keep winter’s colds, flus, and stomach bugs at bay.

Farmers’ Market Kale Salad with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins

Several years ago, one of my favorite farmers at the outdoor market in my small New England town, saw me puzzling over her display of kale. To encourage me to put a bunch in my basket, she shared her recipe for a simple kale salad. I loved this creation from my first bite. The kale’s mild, cabbage-like flavor and somewhat crisp texture is complemented by the dressing which has tart, sweet, and slightly hot accents provided respectively by lemon, maple syrup, and red pepper flakes. Pine nuts provide more crunch and raisins an additional sweet note.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
Scant 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 ounces kale (See note.)
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts (See note.)

1.Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, syrup, mustard, salt, red pepper flakes, and black pepper in a nonreactive bowl. (The dressing yields 1/4 cup and can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before using.)

2. Remove and discard the tough stems and center veins from the kale leaves. Then cut the leaves crosswise into 1/2 inch wide strips to yield 6 cups well packed kale.

3. Place the dressing in a salad bowl and whisk well. Add the kale and toss to coat greens thoroughly with dressing. Divide salad evenly and mound on 4 salad plates. Garnish each serving with raisins and pine nuts. Serves 4

Note: Kale is available in many colors and varieties. For this salad, use the dark green variety with creamy white stems or the dark green with purple-tinged leaves and stems. Keep refrigerated in the coldest area of your refrigerator for no more than 2 to 3 days before using. Kale contains Vitamins A and C, folic acid, calcium, and iron.

Note: To toast pine nuts, place in a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook and stir until nuts are lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes or less. Watch carefully as they burn easily. Remove and cool to room temperature.

Copyright Betty Rosbottom

Roasted Sweet Potato Hash Browns

Here’s a modern take on hash browns in which the potatoes are roasted first, which intensifies their sweetness, then browned in a hot frying pan, and finally combined with bacon, red onions, rosemary and garlic. The three primary ingredients—sweet potatoes, red onions, and bacon—are each easily distinguishable yet complementary to one another.
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1 1/2 pounds (5 cups) sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch/12-mm dice
1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp dried rosemary, crushed
Kosher salt
Coarsely ground pepper
5 thick bacon slices (5-1/2 oz), cut in 1-1/2 inch/4 cm pieces
2 cups thinly sliced red onion
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary plus a sprig or two for garnish
2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano, optional

1. Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a large rimmed, baking sheet/tray with foil and set aside.

2. Spread the sweet potatoes on the baking sheet/tray. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle the dried rosemary over them. Season with salt and pepper, and then toss to coat evenly.

3. Roast until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes, stirring after ten minutes. Remove from the oven when done. (Potatoes can be prepared 2 hours ahead; leave loosely covered with foil at room temperature.)

4. Cook the bacon in a large, heavy frying pan over medium-low heat until crisp. Drain the cooked bacon on paper towels. Remove all but 1 tablespoon of bacon drippings from the frying pan, but reserve the remaining drippings. Place the frying pan on medium to medium-low heat and add the onions. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 1 minute more.

5. Remove the onions and garlic from the pan. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of the reserved bacon drippings back to the hot frying pan. Add the sweet potatoes and quickly sauté until crisp and nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Return the onions and garlic and the bacon pieces to the frying pan and stir 1 minute more. Season the potatoes with fresh rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon black pepper. For a slightly richer taste toss the mixture with the Parmesan. Serve warm. Serves 4 to 6

Note: Sweet potatoes are good sources of Vitamin A, potassium, and fiber.

From Sunday Brunch (Chronicle Books 2012) by Betty Rosbottom

Oscar Snacks!

Deb Brown's Grilled Cheese Tartines 2After much movie-going in 2012, I’m betting that these will be Oscar winners (in the top five categories) on Sunday night!

Best Picture—Argo
Best Actor—Daniel Day-Lewis (Lincoln)
Best Actress—Jennifer Lawrence (Silver Linings Playbook)
Best Supporting Actor—Robert De Niro (Silver Linings Playbook)
Best Supporting Actress—Anne Hathaway (Les Misérables)

I’d love to hear about your favorites! You can find a ballot here

Regardless of whom you’re rooting for, everyone loves to nibble while watching this mother of all awards shows. Decadently good cheese tartines served with a balsamic dipping sauce would be perfect to put on the menu for the big night.

These miniature grilled cheese sandwiches are the creation of Deborah Snow, the talented chef of Blue Heron Restaurant and Catering in Sunderland, Massachusetts. Deb willingly shared the recipe, explaining that these addictive little morsels were one of her catering firm’s most requested dishes.

Prepared with grated Gruyère and Grafton cheddar (a white cheddar from Vermont) that is mounded between slices of good white bread, these sandwiches are coated with melted butter, quickly sautéed, then placed in the oven for several minutes. Deb cuts the sandwiches into squares or triangles, and serves them with a simple balsamic sauce and some pear puree. I followed her directions, but used only the balsamic sauce as a garnish. Continue reading

Riding Out the Storm with a French Classic—Cassoulet

Cassoulet Rapide 1By Wednesday last week everyone in our small New England town was talking about the big storm! The first I heard of it was at my ophthalmologist’s office where the nurses were all abuzz about the weekend weather forecast. I didn’t pay much attention since predictions here are so often incorrect, but as the day went on, and one television weather reporter after another promised that the upcoming event was going to be historic, I got nervous. Like most of Amherst it seems, I trekked to the market to stock up on food.

On the way there, I decided that I’d try a new recipe—a short version of cassoulet, that classic casserole of beans, sausages, meats, and poultry celebrated in southwestern France. Typically, cassoulet takes several days to make. The beans are prepared at one session, the duck, meats, and sausages at others. I had a recipe, however, for a quick version that my friend, Jacques Ableman, had shared with me when I was in Amsterdam recently. Continue reading

A Simple Yet Chic Chocolate Cake for Valentine

Valentine Dark Chocolate Cake 1My friends all know that I have been a bona fide chocoholic for decades. Bars of rich 70 % dark chocolate are tucked away in my kitchen cupboard, ready to satisfy my chocolate cravings at any hour of the day. You’d also find bowls piled high with Chocolate Kisses in our living room, on our sun porch and in both guest bedrooms at our house. When asked by cooking students to list what I might like for my last meal, I say the only requirement is that it end with chocolate! So when Valentine’s Day arrives each year, I celebrate with a special homemade chocolate indulgence.

This month I pulled out a recipe for a luscious dark chocolate flourless cake that I baked several years ago during a winter visit to Paris, and then adapted for my newspaper column when back home. I had spotted this particular cake in a French cookbook, and noticed that it was prepared with a slightly different twist. What caught my attention was that the sugar was first caramelized, then diced butter and chopped chocolate were stirred into the hot liquid until they melted. Finally, egg yolks and beaten whites were incorporated before the batter was poured into a pan.

Chili That’s A Winner for Super Bowl Sunday

Spicy Chili with a Cornbread Crust 1My grown son, Mike, makes fun of me because I am not “au courant” when it comes to sports, and in particular when the subject is pro football. While he can name every team in the NFC and the AFC, their wins and losses for the past season, and most of their players, I’m still trying to figure out who’s going to the Super Bowl!
 
What I do have, though, is a stash of recipes perfect for when my offspring wants to cook for his pals on Super Bowl Sunday. This year I’ve suggested a spicy chili with big robust flavors that easily and inexpensively will feed a crowd. Continue reading