Piping Hot Onion Soup Counters Freezing Temperatures

Onion Soup Gratinee 1After three blissful weeks in Paris where the thermometer rarely registered out of the 40s, we returned to blizzard conditions in New England and temperatures so cold (try minus 5 as a low and 12 as a high) that we haven’t ventured far from the warmth of our home. Although the Artic blast has prevented us from walking for exercise, it hasn’t diminished our appetites. In fact, the weather has made us ravenous, especially for comfort food.

On my first trip to the grocery, I picked up all the makings for the ultimate cold weather dish—soupe à l’oignon gratinée. This particular recipe, the pièce de résistance of a recent cooking class called Midnight in Paris, is based loosely on the first onion soup I ever made from Julia’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volume I. The main difference is that I suggest using a quickly made short-cut beef stock, or, when rushed, opting for quality purchased stock. Continue reading

A Stay At Home Lunch in Paris

Scallop and Mushroom Tart 2In Paris, my local cheese store, Quatrehomme, always has an array of savory tarts ready to be sliced and taken home for reheating. Recently, I noticed one made with mild, lovely Cantal cheese topped with sliced tomatoes, another prepared with extra creamy Reblochon cheese and ham, and a new combo of brébis (sheep’s cheese) with smoked ham. A few steps away at La Grande Epicerie, a spinach and fresh salmon torte encrusted in a rich golden pastry shell was equally tempting. All were inspiration for the mushroom and scallop tart I made for lunch a few days ago.

Baking this tart was a breeze because I used plenty of convenience ingredients. For the crust, I bought puff pastry sheets already cut into circles so that all I needed to do was mold one into a tart pan. The cheese store sold grated Gruyère, and it wasn’t a problem to find a box of fresh, sliced mushrooms. On the other side of the Atlantic, puff pastry is sold in most markets, but you will need to cut a sheet to fit your pan. Pre-sliced mushrooms are common too, but you may have to take a few minutes to grate the cheese. Continue reading

Eating Lean After Too Many Indulgences

Winter Greens Salad with Apples, Smoked Trout, and Walnuts 1It’s hard to turn down delicious temptations when you’re in Paris. This week alone, my husband and I have dined out with friends at five different restaurants. At Semilla, the stuffed pintade (guinea hen) served with white polenta and fresh truffles was irresistible, as was my creamy risotto with chorizo and fresh orange segments at Muxu, a Basque restaurant. Petite grenaille potatoes sautéed in duck fat at La Laiterie Sainte-Clotilde, and an incredible apple dessert garnished with lime ice cream and a streusel crust at Pirouette were good for our spirits, but hard on our waistlines.

After eating without counting calories, we felt the need for a light entrée such as the winter salad of mixed greens, sliced apples, and smoked trout that I made a few days ago. It takes only about 20 minutes to assemble, and bursts with flavor and color. I marinated sliced apples, Belgian endive, and radishes in a lemon/mustard dressing, then tossed them with mixed greens. For serving, the salad was mounded on dinner plates, garnished with smoked fish, and sprinkled with coarsely chopped walnuts. Continue reading

A New Restaurant in Paris to Start the New Year

Le Pario entrance

Although we’ve been in Paris several days, most of the city’s restaurants have been shuttered for the holidays. Only this weekend did they start to reopen. We couldn’t wait, and for our first outing went to Le Pario, a new place in the 15th arrondissement that opened this fall. Our friends John and Sue Talbott recommended it, and met us there. John is a well known food critic/blogger here in France’s capital so I knew we were in for a treat.

 

Le Pario interior

 

 


Le Pario
is small and well appointed with banquettes covered in rich caramel leather and tables topped with crisp white linens. But it’s the creative dishes of chef Eduardo Jacinto that are the real draw. A native Brazilian, with an impressive resumé that includes stints at Café Constant and Le Violon d’Ingres, this talented cook offers fresh, seasonal food that is stylishly presented and reasonably priced.

 

Potiron, Chestnut,  and Truffle Cream Soup

Our first courses were definitely original. I ordered a cream soup prepared with potiron (an orange winter squash), chestnuts, and truffle-scented cream. My spouse opted for a composed salad of smoked chicken, carrots, and scallions accompanied by baby romaine in a Caesar dressing. Mains included roasted quail with bacon-stuffed potatoes, and a tender fricassee of Continue reading

Paris’s Stunning New Grande Epicerie-Not Your Everyday A&P

La Grande Epicerie Domed Glass Ceiiing

La Grande Epicerie Domed Glass Ceiiing

Greetings from Paris where everyone is getting ready for New Year’s Eve or le réveillon as it’s called here. The French are busy stocking up on all their traditional indulgences–champagne, foie gras, oysters, smoked salmon, and bûches de Noel — to welcome 2014. I joined in the fray at La Grande Epicerie in the Bon Marché department store on Paris’s Left Bank, and was blown away by the gorgeous renovation this super deluxe food store has undergone. How many groceries do you know that have 3 floors and a soaring domed ceiling with a sun roof!

 

 

 

One of several cheese counters in the Fromagerie

One of several cheese counters in the Fromagerie

 

The food, displayed in themed settings, looks like it’s ready for a movie set. There’s a foie gras counter, a smoked salmon stand, and la crémerie which offers unctuous, calorie-laden creams from France’s countryside. And, of course, there are countless cheeses, all seemingly with pedigrees.

 

Scallops in Their Shells

Scallops in Their Shells

 

Fish–especially shell fish–are on everyone’s menu list, and so there are gorgeous arrangements of oysters, lobsters, scallops, shrimp, as well as other crustaceans and bivalves in the poissonerie!

 

 

 

 

Bûches de Noël

Bûches de Noël

 

It wouldn’t be a celebration without  sweet endings. Although there is an array of pastries to seduce you, bûches de noel are definitely the sentimental favorite. They come in myriad flavors, hues, and sizes. 

 

 

 

 

 

Wine and Spirits on the lower floor

Wine and Spirits on the lower floor

 

The entire lower floor is devoted to wines, liqueurs, and other spirits. Their livers are the last thing on the minds of Parisians when they ring in the new year!

Happy New Year–Bonne Année 2014!

 

 

 

 

A Stunning Roast Beef Tenderloin for Christmas Dinner!

Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Tomatoes,  Goat Cheese, and Watercress 3 If you’re like me and have waited until the last minute to decide on what to serve for Christmas, worry no more. A glorious beef tenderloin roasted with plum tomatoes and garnished with a sprinkle of creamy goat cheese might just be the answer. For the past few years my son and I have planned and cooked together our family’s holiday meals. But, this year we are behind and still haven’t chosen our menu for 2013. Since our clan clamors for beef on the 25th, I culled my files, and found a favorite recipe for beef tenderloin roasted with plum tomatoes garnished with creamy crumbles of goat cheese.

I created this dish several years ago for my syndicated column, and am still amazed that it is so deceptively uncomplicated to assemble, and calls for such readily available ingredients. Continue reading

Cappuccino Cheesecake—A Holiday Indulgence!

Cappuccino 2a resizedLast night at my book club’s annual holiday potluck, guests brought two appetizers, two soups, and a half dozen desserts. Obviously, this group of avid readers had forgone diets to indulge in sweet temptations. There were three kinds of cookies, big (not petit) vanilla frosted cupcakes topped with pomegranate seeds, dense brownies, and a loaf cake studded with fruits. At the end of the evening the few remaining desserts were quickly divvied up and carted off to enjoy at home!

“Tis the season to eat without guilt,” so I am including a new recipe for a rich and creamy cappuccino cheesecake. Just like a cup of cappuccino, this cheesecake has an espresso-scented base (made with both cream cheese and mascarpone) and is garnished with whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon. I also added a drizzle of chocolate sauce to complement the coffee flavor. Continue reading

Two Meals and a Musical in New York City—All Hits!

Right before Thanksgiving my husband and I made a quick trip to The Big Apple to do Christmas shopping. Still, we managed to have two delicious meals and get to a terrific Broadway musical as well.

Reynard at Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Reynard interior, photo from OpenTable.com

The first night we took the subway to Williamsburg in Brooklyn to have dinner with friends at Reynard in the Wythe Hotel. Located in a large space on the ground floor, the restaurant has soaring ceilings, tiled mosaic floors, and exposed brick walls all seemingly preserved from the building’s former life as a textile factory. But if the setting is lovely, it’s the food that makes Reynard worth a visit.

The menu changes constantly to reflect what is in season. My first course–grilled kohlrabi (a knobby vegetable you don’t see on many menus), tender mache, and apples arranged atop a swathe of apple butter, then sprinkled with a crumbled white German cheese–was exceptional for its blend of tastes and textures. Thinly sliced mushroons on a bed of spinach pesto showered with shaved Parmesan won kudos as well.

Scallops, Rutabaga, and Radicchio

Scallops, Rutabaga, and Radicchio

For mains, grilled scallops, rutabagas, and radicchio leaves garnished with some sweet potato puree as well as a risotto with fork-tender shredded short ribs were both winners. We passed on dessert, ending our meal with a trip to the bar on the 6th floor where ceiling-high windows offer a stunning view of Manhattan.

Interior Ippudo

Interior Ippudo

 

The next day we had lunch at Ippudo, a lively noodle bar that doesn’t take reservations in the East Village, and arrived early to avoid the long lines that form after 11:30. For appetizers we loved the lightly battered, fried shishito peppers with yuzu salt and the ethereally light buns stuffed with crispy chicken bathed in a spicy barbecue-style sauce. Next we ordered huge bowls of ramen noodles, like those everyone at our communal table were slurping.

Fried Shishito Peppers with Yuzu Salt

Fried Shishito Peppers with Yuzu Salt

My version included cabbage, pork, and a smooth miso paste, while my spouse’s was spicier, with wider noodles. Both were delicious.

We ended our stay at the theatre where we saw “Kinky Boots” (the 2013 Tony award winner for best musical with a score by Cindy Lauper and lyrics by Harvey Fierstein).Kinky Boots Playbill 1 Nothing could have been more fun. The songs are catchy, the acting and singing superb, and the choreography very clever. At the close, along with the entire audience, we were on our feet giving a standing ovation!

A Great Make-Ahead Side Dish for Thanksgiving

Roasted Butternut Squash and Pears 1There would be a rebellion in our family if our Thanksgiving menu did not include certain dishes. Everyone expects herb-roasted turkey with shallot pan gravy and cornbread dressing prepared with leeks, onions, and sweet peppers. My spouse adores the glistening cranberry chutney I’ve made for close to two decades, and our grandkids look forward to decadent pies and other sweets to end our feast.

When it comes to side dishes, though, I can vary the offerings without a major protest. This year there will be tender green beans sprinkled with crispy bacon, green onions, and parsley along with buttermilk mashed potatoes with grainy mustard. I’m also adding roasted butternut squash and pears with blue cheese and walnuts, a glorious fall dish that bursts with vibrant fall colors and tastes. Continue reading